Ahead of Copenhagen Fashion Week, 7 Danish Brands Share Sneak Peeks of Their New Collections

Looks from Skall Studio, The Garment, and Day Birger et Mikkelsen.

Photos: Courtesy of the brands

Copenhagen Fashion Week is the first stop on the spring 2022 “local” that will travel to New York, London, Milan, Paris, and other cities before arriving at its final destination. Most shows will be in-person this season, but a hybrid model remains in place, with some brands sticking with digital formats. This combination, which offers designers flexibility, and the opportunity to flex their creative muscles in new ways, seems likely to become the “new norm.”

One of the things that sets CPFW apart from other regional weeks is the way the Danish Fashion Institute has prioritized sustainability. By 2023 only brands that meet certain “green” standards will be eligible to show in their capital. Most labels on the calendar already have responsible protocols in place. A review of the newer names on the roster reveals other themes in Danish fashion.

A bohemian spirit, combined with clean lines, is arguably Danish fashion’s most defining characteristic; look for it at Skall Studio and the relaunched Day Birger et Mikkelsen. The influence of influencers continues to be felt, as Sophia Roe (445K followers) and Charlotte Esklildsen develop their line The Garment. The country that gave us the Pusher series (with Mads Mikkelson as the fast-living Tonny), has long delivered on street style, a vein that newcomer Nikolaj Storm (no relation to the city’s concept store) is tapping into. The brother and sister team at (di)vision are exploring a DIY aesthetic, while Amalie Røge Hove Geertsen and Louise Lyngh Bjerregarrd are taking knitwear in sexy, and yes, sustainable, directions. Meet the designers below.

Skall Studio, spring 2022 ready-to-wear

Skall Studio, spring 2022 ready-to-wear

Photo: Courtesy of Skall Studio

Skall Studio, spring 2022 ready-to-wear

Skall Studio, spring 2022 ready-to-wear

Photo: Courtesy of Skall Studio

Skall Studio
The brand: Founded by sisters and co-designers Julie and Marie Skall in 2014.
The vibe: Kinfolk-y.
What adjectives best describe your label?: Natural materials, made to last, classic essentials, craftsmanship, and soon GOTS certified.
Can you share one of your sustainability initiatives?
Since we launched our knitwear has been made in Denmark, sourced and spun in one of two remaining spinning mills in [here] and knitted in one of the few remaining knitting factories. By doing so we support animal welfare, and local production and craftsmanship, and ensure a transparent supply chain. Craftsmanship is essential to us which is also why we’ve launched our own knitting kits—to encourage our customers to do local production and keep craftsmanship alive.
Favorite place, person, or event in CPH?
We are great fans of the Danish eatery Apotek 57 situated in the heart of Copenhagen, close to our office and store. The chef Chiara Barla grew up in Italy and moved to Denmark to work within Scandinavian food culture, but you can still sense her Italian roots. We recommend their coffee and Chiara’s brioche buns with blood orange which look like small artworks. Make sure to read our Skall Letter with Chiara Barla.

Day Birger et Mikkelsen, spring 2022 ready-to-wear

Day Birger et Mikkelsen, spring 2022 ready-to-wear

Photo: Courtesy of Day Birger et Mikkelsen

Day Birger et Mikkelsen, spring 2022 ready-to-wear

Day Birger et Mikkelsen, spring 2022 ready-to-wear

Photo: Courtesy of Day Birger et Mikkelsen

Day Birger et Mikkelsen
The brand: Originally founded in 1997, the label was relaunched this year under the creative direction of Christina Exsteen.
The vibe: On-the-go.
The adjectives that best describe the brand?: Democratic, bohemian, curated, and sexy.
Can you share one of your sustainability initiatives? We have a testing strategy where we do random tests, to ensure that our products live up to REACH. [An EU initiative to protect human health and the environment through identifying the propoerties of of chemical substances, which is accomplished by Registration, Evaluation, Authorisation and restriction of chemicals.]
Favorite place, person, or event in CPH?
My favorite thing in Copenhagen must be my bike—it is such an easy and quick way to get around in the city. I love Refshaleøen during the summer. It is an old industrial area which today is a rediscovered district bubbling with creativity and strong entrepreneurship, art, food, and festivals; so different from the rest of Copenhagen, but still only a bike ride away.

The Garment, pre-spring 2022

The Garment, pre-spring 2022

Photo: Courtesy of The Garment

The Garment
The brand: Founded by co-designers Sophia Roe, Creative Director, and Charlotte Esklildsen, Head of Sustainability, in 2020.
The vibe: Photogenic minimalism.
The adjectives that best describe the brand?: Responsible, minimal, timeless, personal, sustainable.
Can you share one of your sustainability initiatives? One of our sustainable initiatives is carbon offsetting. We offset the Co2 impact of each garment we produce, which represents a tangible way of combatting climate change.
Favorite place, person, or event in CPH?
Our favorite place is Amalie Haven, right in front of our office. You can see everything beautiful in Copenhagen from this post.

Nikolaj Storm Copenhagen

Nikolaj Storm Copenhagen

Photo: Courtesy Nikolaj Storm Copenhagen

Nikolaj Storm Copenhagen
The brand: Founded in 2018 upon the designer’s graduation from The Royal Danish Academy of Fine Arts.
The vibe: Loud and logoed.
The adjectives that best describe the brand: Bold, colorful, inclusive, daring, and flamboyant.
Can you share one of your sustainability initiatives? We are working on our in-house factory, where we offer our customers alterations of the products if needed. Or if our customers would like a redesign of some of their old styles, we do upcycling of their outfits for a small fee.
Favorite place, person, or event in CPH? [This summer] I have visited the newly opened restaurant Dumpo a lot. It is close to home, and I love to go on a sunny evening as the vibe is very casual, the waiters are always making it a fun experience, and the food and drinks are impeccable. I would definitely recommend my favorite drink which is the Skydebane–you won’t be disappointed!

(di)vision, spring 2022 ready-to-wear

(di)vision, spring 2022 ready-to-wear

Photo: Courtesy of (di)vision

(di)vision
The brand: Founded in 2018 by the brother and sister team of Nanna (who responded to the questions below) and Simon Wick.
The vibe: DIY—with a split personality.
What adjectives best describe your brand? Conscious, inclusive, raw.
Can you share one of your sustainability initiatives? When we first started out, we really wanted to rework already existing stuff. Over time we started experimenting with creating our own fabrics from vintage items with the idea of changing the whole perception of a certain garment, as it would be constructed into a new unique piece of clothing. This is our heart and soul and what we are all about: To create from what already is.
Favorite place, person, or event in CPH? After having my daughter six months ago—she’s my favorite everything!—our family’s Sunday strolls around the city have become sacred. My absolute favorite place is Sydhavnstippen, which is a park unlike any other in the city, where the city does not exist for a moment and nature takes over.

A. Røge Hove, spring 2022 ready-to-wear

A. Røge Hove, spring 2022 ready-to-wear

Photo: Courtesy of A. Røge Hove

A. Røge Hove, spring 2022 ready-to-wear

A. Røge Hove, spring 2022 ready-to-wear

Photo: Courtesy of A. Røge Hove

A. Røge Hove
The brand: Founded by Amalie Røge Hove Geertsen in 2019.
The vibe: Sexy and stretchy.
What adjectives best describe your label? Transformative, simple, detail-oriented.
Can you share one of your sustainability initiatives?
We produce with zero or very little waist as we only knit in shape—that’s the most important to us!
Favorite place, person, or event in CPH?
My studio with all my machines is my favorite place for contemplation, and there is a great energy there. The time with my knitting machines where I can knit with no specific purpose and just test different ideas is the best.

Louise Lyngh Bjerregaard

Louise Lyngh Bjerregaard

Photo: Courtesy of Louise Lyngh Bjerregaard

Louise Lyngh Bjerregaard

Louise Lyngh Bjerregaard

Photo: Courtesy of Louise Lyngh Bjerregaard

Louise Lyngh Bjerregaard
The brand: Started when Bjerregarrd was studying in Scandinavia; she registered the company in 2019, and is now based in Paris.
The vibe: Shape shifting
What adjectives best describe your label? I would say courage, integrity, communication, disruption, and craftsmanship, as these are the first words that come to mind—if we don’t add all the darkness to it.
Can you share one of your sustainability initiatives? Almost all of the current collection consists of deadstock or upcycling. I have grown fond of utilizing whatever I come across, no matter the quantity available; I think it brings an exciting aspect of pressure when deciding what kind of garment a material ends up being. To me, the ability to incorporate sustainability into your work from the beginning is as important as creating a beautiful outcome.
Favorite place, person, or event in CPH? I am staying in my favorite neighborhood, Frederiksberg, in my friend’s house while he is on vacation. He grows vegetables on his rooftop and I have to water them, so this might be my new favorite place for the season! I also know I am going to get a coffee from Andersen & Maillard in Nørrebro and natural wine from Max at Pompette. Then I am going to borrow a bike to have a morning swim in the ocean with my mother. Last summer my team and I would go swimming almost every day before work and this is something I miss about living in Paris—the ocean.

Originally Appeared on Vogue

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